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Field-blending is the Secret to Saxon Brown’s Quintessential Sonoma Valley Wines

Right where Boyes Boulevard hits Arnold Drive, there is a unique, turn-of-the-century mansion surrounded by ancient vineyards with the name “Gallo” on the gate at the end of the driveway.

Closer inspection reveals a bell tower, lots of mature trees and a widow’s peak encased in glass.

It only makes you wonder who lives there, the history, and about the wines that come from these old-vine vineyards. It turns out that the house is owned by the Gallos, yet it isn’t the Gallos you are thinking of.

“They were the first Gallos to come here,” comments Jeff Gaffner, winemaker and owner of Saxon Brown Vineyards. Gaffner married one of the four daughters of Guido and Mary Gallo. Guido Gallo owned Gallo Brothers Chrysler Plymouth, which used to be where the glass company currently stands (near Sonoma Mission Inn) in Boyes Hot Springs. Gaffner makes several traditional Italian-style wines form the Casa Santinamaria Vineyard, which surrounds the house.

The house itself has an interesting history. Originally, General Vallejo granted the land and a Presbyterian Church was erected in 1879. Since then, the church moved further north, and later, the Gallos purchased the church and the surrounding property. The bell still hangs in the bell tower, and Mary Gallo still lives in the former church.

Beyond the house, a dirt road leads past an enormous persimmon tree and a loquat tree. Here, one can see a rock-lined “cave” tucked into the hillside above a creek bed. It looks like an overgrown confessional, which Gaffner suspects might have been a place for Native Americans to worship, since they weren’t allowed in the church.

“We just knew it as ‘The Indian Cave’ all along,” says Gaffner, who actually rented a cottage on the property when he was 18 years old. “It might have even been a confessional.”

Saxon Brown Winery is named after the heroine in Jack London’s “Valley of the Moon.” It specializes in field-blended zinfandel from the vineyard passed down from Guido. Additionally, they make an estate semillon, as well as wines from outside, contracted vineyards. The estate vineyard, Casa Santinamaria, was named after Gaffner’s mother-in-law and grandmother-in-law.

Gaffner’s choice of producing field-blended wines pays homage to the way his Italian in-laws made wine back in the day. His zinfandel vineyard is host to eleven different varietals, including some whites! Gaffner still can’t identify several varietals. By vine count, just over 75 percent are zinfandel vines, which means Saxon Brown can legally call it zinfandel.

“Those old Italian farts knew a hell of a lot more than they were telling us,” quips Gaffner. Who explains the importance of co-pigmentation in the vineyard. “They never really got credit for what they had learned through experience. It’s like cooking with more than one spice. It’s a broad array, and when they all go in together, it makes for a wonderful flavor component.”

His semillon is similarly comprised of 75 percent semillon, 20 percent muscat and 5 percent sauvignon blanc, which is all harvested and fermented together like the zin.

The newest block in the Casa Santinamaria Vineyard is over 75 years old.
Jeff Gaffner cut his winemaking teeth at Chateau St. Jean under the tutelage of Dick Arrowood. Currently, he is the consulting winemaker for Xtant, Heston Vineyards, Armida and Black Kite. He is clearly a “vineyard guy,” and he unconsciously touches each vine as he walks by it, like a parent might keep track of his child on a busy sidewalk.

Saxon Brown is focused on maintaining tradition in the Casa Santinamaria Vineyard. The grapes are dry-farmed, and the blocks are simply called “blacks” and “whites.”

I’m continually amazed by the array of interesting wine stories here in our valley. The Saxon Brown field blends to me are among the quintessential Sonoma Valley wines. One can taste tradition as well as vibrant flavor in these offerings. They give you a sense of Sonoma as it was years ago.

2005 Saxon Brown Syrah Rosé, Chalk Hill “Flora Ranch”
Aromas of pomegranate lead to flavors of table grapes and strawberries. This wine is bright and fresh, with some alluring smoke on the finish. $18

2005 Saxon Brown Semillon, Sonoma Valley “Casa Santinamaria Vineyard”
“This is the only allocated semillon in the world,” explains winemaker Jeff Gaffner. This one is a traditional field blend, with a fresh lemon-lime scent. Flavors start with citrus, then fig, then a nice muscat character. I found a slight trace of fennel on the long finish. This wine is bone dry, and perfect for these 100-degree days. $30

2002 Saxon Brown Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley “Casa Santinamaria Vineyard”
This wine has a classic zinfandel nose, with dark fruit and earthy components. Upon first sip, the restrained fruit shines through from the background. There’s great acidity here, which suggests that this wine would pair well with food. Pepper and cranberry notes are framed up black fruit and chalky tannins. I think this wine could continue to improve with age. The overall character of this zinfandel reminds one of Italian immigrants farming the Sonoma Valley decades ago. Gaffner has captured the essence of the Casa Santamaria Vineyard in this bottling. $32

2003 Saxon Brown Syrah, Sonoma Valley “Parmelee-Hill Vineyard”
This wine is remarkably European in style, driven by spice rather than fruit. Fabulous mouth feel, leathery spices and carbonic black fruit deliver grip and elegance simultaneously. Nice blueberry comes through on the finish. I was even more impressed with this wine when I revisited it the next day. It’s like a Sonoma Valley Cotes Rotie. $30

Bradley Gray owns Gray Matters Communications, a wine industry-based public relations firm. Contact him at sonomasunwine@hotmail.com with comments, story ideas or to submit samples for review.